A Long Weekend Road Trip to Idaho’s Best Hot Springs: Goldbug, Kirkham & More
I’ve been dreaming of exploring Idaho’s hot springs for years, and this November I finally convinced my husband to take a long weekend road trip to chase geothermal pools, mountain views, and late-fall/early-winter adventure. If you’re looking for an easy getaway from Salt Lake City with incredible scenery, natural hot springs, and unique stops along the way, consider this your sign.
Day 1: Salt Lake City → Pocatello → Craters of the Moon National Monument
We started in Salt Lake City, after we got off work, and drove to Pocatello for the night. We stayed at the Hampton Inn & Suites, which was super affordable in the off-season, very clean, and perfect for a quick stop.
The next morning we continued to Craters of the Moon National Monument, a must-see for anyone who loves geology, volcanic landscapes, or unique hiking trails. The park was nearly empty due to a government shutdown, which made the experience even better.
Hikes we did:
- Inferno Cone — 0.4 miles, 141 ft gain. A short but steep climb with panoramic views.
- Tree Molds Trail — 2.1 miles, 164 ft gain. Fascinating look at ancient lava flows.
- Spatter Cones — 1.3 miles, 173 ft gain. Peer into old volcanic vents.
Geology Hit:
Craters of the Moon sits on the Great Rift, a volcanic fissure that produced massive lava flows between 15,000 and 2,000 years ago. Hiking here feels like walking on another planet.
Tip: There is nothing near this park. Bring food, water, and plenty of gas. Also, if you’re into astrophotography, I imagine this park is just perfect for that!
Day 1 Continued: Ketchum → Stanley → Salmon River Scenic Byway
After Craters of the Moon, we stopped for lunch in Ketchum at Sawtooth Brewery Public House, which had great food and great beer (per Emmy). I’m always on the lookout for good nachos and this place had them! This town is adorable, and I’d love to go back to explore more…and check out Sun Valley as well.
From Ketchum, we drove over the pass toward Stanley, and even in early November, it was unbelievably beautiful. Snow dusted the peaks, the roads were quiet, and the views looked like they belonged in a travel magazine.
We topped off gas in Stanley and continued along the Salmon River Scenic Byway, passing steaming roadside hot springs and spotting so many deer. We even clipped one that jumped directly in front of our car (everyone was okay, including the deer, thankfully). If you drive this road at night, please be careful.
Tip: Ensure you drive the Sawtooth Scenic Byway and the Salmon River Scenic Byway in the daytime. Both roads are absolutely stunning.
Night in a Cabin Between Salmon & Challis
We stayed in a cozy cabin tucked near the Salmon River. The cabin was so cute and rustic, and it was actually our first time staying in a true cabin. It will now become our entire personality!
It was dark when we arrived, but we could hear the water running next to the cabin, which was the perfect soundtrack after a long day. If you’re exploring the Salmon River Scenic Byway or hiking Goldbug Hot Springs, staying in this area is perfect. The cabin is less than a mile from the trailhead to Goldbug Hot Springs.
Day 2: Hiking to Goldbug Hot Springs
Goldbug Hot Springs was the highlight of our trip. The trail starts right off US-93 and is about 3.5–4 miles round trip with around 1,350 ft of elevation gain. Not long, but the final climb is very steep.
Everything was coated in frost, which made the hike incredibly beautiful, and incredibly cold. Emmy got grumpier the higher we climbed, but once we reached the top, all was forgiven.
Tip: Keep hiking up until you reach the bridge. The beautiful Heart Pool is right below that.
The Heart Pool
The famous Heart Pool is spacious, beautiful, and the perfect temperature. Another couple was already soaking, but they welcomed us in and we watched the sun rise over the canyon. We stayed for about two hours, soaking in warm water while cold air drifted around us. Highly recommend.
Tip: Go early! We went at sunrise on a Saturday and there was only one other couple there. However, as we were leaving, the traffic had really picked up. Plus, the way that sunrise glowed on that peak was perfection.
Day 2 Continued: Challis → Steamboat Hot Springs → Stanley
After hiking back down, we grabbed lunch at Challis Roadhouse. They had great food, friendly people, and they have live music on weekends! Emmy of course became best friends with the people working. I’m pretty sure he could run for Mayor in that town.
We continued back along the Salmon River Scenic Byway and stopped at Steamboat Hot Springs, but since a few people were already in the soaking tubs (and we were still half frozen from Goldbug), we just wandered around and enjoyed the scenery.
Tip: During our trip, we could only see two tubs, so it may be hard to get a tub if there are other people there. There are some pools you can soak in as well, but they are quite shallow.
Night in the Cutest Riverside Motel in Stanley
In Stanley, we stayed at the Redfish Riverside Inn, a cozy little motel with the Salmon River just steps from the balcony. The room itself was done up in rustic cabin decor and it had a front door where you park and then a back door where you can go out and enjoy the view. Simple, peaceful, and absolutely worth staying at again. I’m hoping to go back in the summer!
Tip: If you think that going out the back door for sunrise would be amazing, please make sure you don’t close the backdoor. It could lock you out, leaving you to climb over a fence to get back to your front door. Just saying.
Day 3: Bonneville Hot Springs & Kirkham Hot Springs
Bonneville Hot Springs (Ponderosa Pine Scenic Byway)
Because the campground was closed for the season, we hiked about a mile in. Bonneville is known for its little wooden soaking shack with a built-in tub, and it did not disappoint. Clean, warm, and tucked away in the forest, and we had the entire place to ourselves. The river pools were beautiful but quite shallow and very hot, so we soaked mostly in the tub.
Tip: Even if you don’t soak in the river, I highly suggest you walk down there anyway. It is so incredibly beautiful with all the steam, and the views are just to die for.
Kirkham Hot Springs
This one is iconic for a reason. Kirkham is right off the road (instantly Emmy’s favorite because no hiking was involved) and has multiple pools spread along the riverbank. We chose a pool near a small waterfall with perfect temperatures and hardly any crowds.
Tip: Put a robe on over your swimsuit and walk to the hot springs. That way you don’t have to get undressed and dressed again in the cold air. You’re simply just taking off your robe and putting it back on. Highly recommend!
Geology Hit:
Idaho sits on top of a huge network of faults, fractured rock, and ancient volcanic systems. Beneath the surface, groundwater seeps deep into the earth, heats up from geothermal energy, and rises back up through cracks in the rock, creating the hot springs we love today. Many of Idaho’s springs, including Goldbug, Kirkham, and Bonneville, form where this hot water mixes with cooler river or creek water, creating naturally perfect soaking temperatures.
Heading Back to Salt Lake City
After Kirkham, we changed in the car, drove to Boise for lunch, and continued home. The entire trip was a mix of unique hot springs, scenic drives, and early-winter beauty. If you’re looking for an Idaho hot springs adventure, especially from Utah, this route is so worth it.
Tip: Ponderosa Pine Scenic Byway from Stanley to Boise is absolutely beautiful! However, the second half of the byway is very curvy and takes you pretty high up in elevation. I would be a little nervous to drive this in full on winter. Check conditions as it does often close due to snow and avalanche danger.
Final Thoughts: Idaho Hot Springs Belong on Your Bucket List
Idaho has some of the most accessible, scenic, and memorable hot springs and scenic byways in the West. Whether you want a short soak right off the highway or a sunrise pool at the top of a mountain, there’s something here for every kind of explorer.
If you’ve been thinking about planning an Idaho hot springs road trip…go for it. Winter, summer, shoulder season…it’s beautiful year-round.
FAQ: Everything You Need to Know About Visiting Idaho’s Hot Springs
1. Do I need a 4×4 to reach Idaho’s hot springs?
In most seasons, no. You can access Goldbug, Kirkham, and Bonneville with a regular 2WD vehicle. However, from late fall through early spring, snow and ice are common on mountain passes and backroads. Conditions change quickly, so always:
- Check weather forecasts.
- Bring winter driving essentials.
- Have snow tires just in case.
- Drive slowly, especially at dawn and dusk when wildlife is active.
2. How difficult is the hike to Goldbug Hot Springs?
Goldbug is considered a moderate hike. It’s roughly 3.5–4 miles round trip, with about 900–1,350 feet of elevation gain, depending on where you end up soaking.
What to expect:
- The beginning feels easy.
- The final climb is steep, rocky, and can be slippery in winter.
- In cold months, microspikes or traction can make a big difference.
3. Are Idaho’s hot springs crowded?
Crowds vary a lot by season:
- Summer: Goldbug and Kirkham can get very busy, especially midday.
- Fall & winter: Fewer people, but colder conditions.
- Early mornings & weekdays: Almost always the quietest times.
- Bonneville: Often less crowded than other springs, especially when the campground is closed.
4. Do I need to pay or get a permit to soak?
Currently:
- Goldbug Hot Springs: Free access; no permit required.
- Bonneville Hot Springs: Free unless the campground is open (then standard campground fees apply).
- Kirkham Hot Springs: Typically a small day-use fee ($5–$10), depending on how the site is being managed that season.
Always bring both cash and card. Fees can change seasonally.
5. Are the hot springs safe to soak in?
Generally yes, but spring temperatures vary widely, especially near the water sources.
- Some pools, especially at Bonneville and Kirkham, can be extremely hot.
- At Goldbug, temperature varies by pool, season, and water flow.
- Always test water before getting in, and never block or alter natural water flow.
6. What’s the best time of year to visit Idaho’s hot springs?
Each season offers something different:
- Winter: Magical steam, fewer crowds, icy trails, but more preparation is needed.
- Spring: Great waterfall flow, moderate temps.
- Summer: Easiest access but busiest season.
- Fall: Perfect weather, fewer visitors, beautiful colors.
7. Are dogs allowed at these hot springs?
Yes, dogs are allowed on many Idaho trails, including Goldbug, but keep these rules in mind:
- Dogs must stay out of the hot spring pools.
- Leashes are required on private property sections near trailheads.
- Some trails, especially Goldbug’s steeper sections, can be tough on paws.
8. How long should you plan for each hot spring?
Plan for:
- Goldbug Hot Springs: 2–4 hours (hike + soak + photo time)
- Bonneville Hot Springs: 1–2 hours
- Kirkham Hot Springs: 1–2 hours
This gives you time to explore without rushing.
9. What should I pack for an Idaho hot springs trip?
Essentials for all seasons:
- Swimsuit + quick-dry towel
- Water shoes or sandals
- Warm layers for before/after soaking
- Snacks + plenty of water
- Waterproof bag for wet clothes
- Offline maps (cell service is spotty)
Cold-weather adds:
- Microspikes/traction
- Robe or oversized jacket for comfort
- Extra dry layers
- Gloves + beanie
- Hot drink in a thermos
10. Is there cell service at these hot springs?
Cell service is very limited around:
- Goldbug Hot Springs
- The Salmon River Scenic Byway
- Bonneville & Kirkham
Plan for stretches with no service. Download offline maps and screenshots of trail directions before you go.
Thank you for being here!
If you have any questions or want to share your own Idaho hot springs stories, drop a comment or email me at cassie@thatoutdoorsygal.com I love connecting with other outdoor lovers!
And as always, please remember to leave no trace so these beautiful places stay wild for the next adventurer. Conditions, access, and fees can change seasonally, so be sure to double-check information before you go.